Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues (17)
Be Prop Aware
According to NSW Maritime records for the past six years, there have been 41 propeller strike incidents on NSW navigable waters resulting in five fatalities, 39 serious and seven minor injuries.
The risks of serious injuries are high for anyone in the water near moving powerboats. A typical three-bladed propeller spins at around 3200rpm and can make more than 100 impacts per second.
The skipper of every boat is responsible for the safety of their passengers, so every skipper should be vigilant and consider the area around the prop as a hazard zone.
Propeller Precautions
NSW Maritime recommends the following basic guidelines:
- Inspect the area near the back of the boat to ensure the area is all clear before starting the engine.
- Turn the engine off when near people in the water as some propellers may continue to spin, even in neutral.
- Keep a proper look out at all times when underway, especially when near swimmers.
- Stay out of designated swimming areas.
- Observe "distance off" rules and keep clear of people in the water, passive craft and other vessels.
- Brief any person driving the powerboat on the risks.
- Keep all arms and legs inside the boat and not over the bow or sides. Bowriding and 'teak surfing' ( holding onto the stern of a boat that is underway) are illegal in NSW.
- Wear a kill-switch lanyard when boating alone. A kill-switch lanyard is attached to the arm and stops the engine when pulled out.
Skippers can also consider technology such as wireless engine cut-off switches, propeller guards and alternative propulsion systems. The best action, however, is for skippers to take care and encourage all to be prop aware. More information on prop strike and boating safety can be found at www.maritime.nsw.gov.au.
Safety By All Means
Published in
Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues
Tagged under
Friday, 29 January 2010 05:36
Marine Safety Conference 2010
Written by National Maritime Safety CommitteeCall for Papers for National Marine Conference
The National Marine Safety Committee is calling for abstracts from those interested in addressing the Marine Safety Conference 2010 to be held at the Burswood Entertainment Complex in Perth from 22 – 24 August this year.
Local speakers will join confirmed international speakers such as John Leech (Irish Water Safety), Dr Edmond Mahoney (marine research University of Michigan USA) and Gina Johannsen (FishSafe British Columbia Canada).
“We are looking for subject matter from those representing the diverse marine sector including the commercial and recreational boating industries, volunteer groups, education and training organisations, researchers, government and individuals,” explained NMSC CEO Margie O’Tarpey.
The conference aims to bring government, industry and associated professionals together to hear about the latest safety initiatives which may prevent marine fatalities and injuries that happen around the coastline and on inland waterways.
The conference will feature the Commonwealth’s evolving national system of maritime regulation as well as topics on research, technical marine standards, boat manufacturing, the fishing industry, safety education, and the marine environment.
Ms O’Tarpey explained that some stakeholders are interested in national construction standards and survey and the conference will include panels and workshops on the National Standard for Commercial Vessels developed by the NMSC.
“We’re also keen to showcase new innovations in marine safety including design and equipment as well as search and rescue and industry perspectives on economic, social, legal and environmental challenges.”
This is the 6th national conference organised by the NMSC, and more than 300 delegates are expected to attend from around the country.
Abstracts of no more than 250 words can be completed and entered at the Marine Safety Conference web page at www.nmsc.gov.au by 7 February 2010.
Published in
Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues
Wednesday, 16 December 2009 04:53
Marine VHF Radio Use
Written by National Maritime Safety Committee
VHF radio useage
The ACMA seeks public and industry comment on the use of VHF radio by recreational boaters
On 22 September 2009 the Australian Communications and Media Authority (the ACMA) released a discussion paper seeking views on possible changes to regulatory arrangements for VHF marine radio used by recreational boat operators.
The purpose of the discussion paper, VHF Marine Radio Operator Qualification Arrangements - Non-Commercial (Recreational) Vessels, is to gather comment from users of marine radio in response to concerns in the marine sector about safety and the use of VHF radio by recreational boaters.
VHF marine radios provide a valuable means of keeping in contact with other vessels and coast stations, particularly at times when the weather changes or when help is needed. The number of vessels on Australian waterways is increasing, and with more competitive prices on equipment, so is the proportion of boats and other craft that are fitted with marine radios.
The review follows concerns expressed to the ACMA by the National Marine Safety Committee (NMSC) and representatives of the maritime community. Many of the concerns focused on perceived declining standards in the use of marine radio and compliance with the requirement to hold an operators' certificate of proficiency.
The discussion paper focuses on the following objectives:
1. Improving the integrity of the radiocommunications spectrum management framework as it applies to the recreational boating community (for example, through effective spectrum planning, licensing and interference management).
2. Examining the needs of the recreational boating community in their use of VHF radio, including for safety purposes, and identifying how those needs might best be supported in light of the ACMA's role and responsibilities.
3. Promoting the overall efficiency of the regulatory framework supporting the operation of marine radio by the recreational boating community.
The discussion paper deals with recreational boaters' use of VHF marine radio equipment authorised by the Radiocommunications (Maritime Ship Station 27 MHz and VHF) Class Licence 2001.
Integrity of spectrum management
Managing the regulation of marine radio use is part of the ACMA's broader role in overseeing the regulation, allocation and use of the radiofrequency spectrum. Where appropriate, the ACMA encourages delegated or devolved stakeholder responsibility for certain related functions. Since 2002, the ACMA has delegated the responsibility of managing the examination and certification scheme for marine radio use to the Australian Marine College (AMC) under a Deed of Agreement. The expiry of this Deed in 2012 provides further impetus for this review. The discussion paper examines existing regulatory arrangements for recreational marine radio operators. As part of this discussion, the ACMA is interested in views about the mandatory nature of the VHF Certificate of Proficiency in the marine recreational sector.
User needs and safety considerations.
A number of issues relating to improving safety outcomes in the sector are canvassed in the paper. The ACMA's involvement in marine safety issues is largely historical and fresh consideration is being given to arrangements in this important area. In order to respond effectively to the NMSC's concerns, the ACMA is interested in hearing the marine community's views about possible links between a reported decline in the standard of operation on the VHF marine band and the apparent low number of operators holding certificates of proficiency. The ACMA is also seeking comments from recreational users on the necessity of the requirement for marine radio operators in the VHF band to be qualified through a framework governed by the ACMA. The ACMA is keen to better understand the recreational marine community's knowledge of marine radio operator certificates of proficiency and how they may be obtained.
Promotion of overall efficiency.
The regulatory framework relating to marine radio is complex and fragmented. Both Commonwealth and State/Territory agencies have responsibility for certain aspects. These range from the ACMA's responsibility for regulation of the radiofrequency spectrum to States and Territories responsibility for vessel licenses which typically deal with carriage of marine radio equipment. A range of ideas on ways to overcome this complexity are discussed and the ACMA is interested in hearing views from interested parties on how to improve overall efficiency. Possible changes to the existing training and examination scheme for the VHF Certificate of Proficiency are also discussed. This discussion is directed towards the possible adoption of a more competency based approach to examinations as well as options for delegating or devolving responsibility for certain related functions.
To help with this review the ACMA has established a VHF Marine Radio Working Party involving key interested bodies like the Australian Marine Safety Authority, the NMSC, State marine safety organisations, volunteer groups and the Australian Marine Industries Federation. The working party assisted with the development of the discussion paper and will continue to be consulted during the course of the ACMA's review. Further public consultation will be conducted as necessary. For more information on this issue and to access a copy of the regulatory framework and the discussion paper, visit the ACMA website at www.acma.gov.au
The closing date for submissions is 18 December 2009. Submissions should be sent by email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Thanks to Bob Mellor, National Training Manager for AVCGA for this update.
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Wednesday, 16 December 2009 04:05
Should I wear a lifejacket on a boat?
Written by Bob Mellor - AVCGA
Re-think your attitude towards wearing a lifejacket or PFD
- For how long?
- How far?
- While trying to put a lifejacket on?
- While helping your kids?
- In rough water?
- When you are injured?
- While you are unconscious?
Always Wear Your Lifejacket
Maritime authorities estimate that lifejackets could have saved the lives of over 80% of boating fatality victims. As a boat operator you are in command of the safety of your passengers. But accidents can, and do happen with terrifying speed on the water. There's rarely time to reach stowed lifejackets. The Australian Volunteer Coast Guard challenges you and your passengers to always wear your lifejacket while on the water.
Things to Know
Certain lifejackets are designed to keep your head above water and help you remain in a position which permits proper breathing. Approved lifejackets must be carried on board every vessel unless exempt. Penalties will be imposed on the owners and masters of vessels found not carrying them or occupants not wearing them as required. Adult sized lifejackets will not work for children. Children's lifejackets are available. To work correctly a lifejacket must be worn, fit snugly, and not allow a child's chin or ears to slip through. Lifejackets should be tested for wear and buoyancy at least once per year. Waterlogged, faded or leaky jackets should be discarded.
Lifejackets Save Lives
Lifejackets have saved the lives of boaters who....
- Capsized in rough water
- Were sinking in unexpectedly heavy sea conditions.
- Were thrown from the boat as a result of a collision.
- Were injured by rocks or submerged objects.
- Were unconscious from inhaling carbon monoxide fumes.
- Were tossed into freezing water.
- Were thrown off balance while fishing
- Were unable to swim because of heavy or waterlogged clothing
To stay In the Clear always wear a lifejacket on the water!! Safety by all means.
Thanks to Bob Mellor, National Training Manager for AVCGA for this editorial.
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So You Can Swim......
- For how long?
- How far?
- While trying to put a lifejacket on?
- While helping your kids?
- In rough water?
- When you are injured?
- While you are unconscious?
Always Wear Your Lifejacket
Maritime authorities estimate that lifejackets could have saved the lives of over 80% of boating fatality victims. As a boat operator you are in command of the safety of your passengers. But accidents can, and do happen with terrifying speed on the water. There's rarely time to reach stowed lifejackets. The Australian Volunteer Coast Guard challenges you and your passengers to always wear your lifejacket while on the water.
Things to Know
Certain lifejackets are designed to keep your head above water and help you remain in a position which permits proper breathing. Approved lifejackets must be carried on board every vessel unless exempt. Penalties will be imposed on the owners and masters of vessels found not carrying them or occupants not wearing them as required. Adult sized lifejackets will not work for children. Children's lifejackets are available. To work correctly a lifejacket must be worn, fit snugly, and not allow a child's chin or ears to slip through. Lifejackets should be tested for wear and buoyancy at least once per year. Waterlogged, faded or leaky jackets should be discarded.
Lifejackets Save Lives
Lifejackets have saved the lives of boaters who....
- Capsized in rough water
- Were sinking in unexpectedly heavy sea conditions.
- Were thrown from the boat as a result of a collision.
- Were injured by rocks or submerged objects.
- Were unconscious from inhaling carbon monoxide fumes.
- Were tossed into freezing water.
- Were thrown off balance while fishing
- Were unable to swim because of heavy or waterlogged clothing
To stay In the Clear always wear a lifejacket on the water!! Safety by all means.
Thanks to Bob Mellor, National Training Manager for AVCGA for this editorial.
Editor's comment: It is very easy to become complacent when you have had so many good times aboard and seemingly no need to wear your lifejacket. As Bob states above, boating accidents often happen at high speed and or at night. Boats sink so fast there is no time to clamber around in your cabin or underneath bunks to retrieve lifejackets. PLEASE get in the habit of wearing your PFD or at the very least, have it sitting right beside you EVERY time you venture out to sea or on the bay. If you are by yourself, always wear your PFD Type 1 lifejacket - you may be rendered unconscious with no one to buoy you.
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Boat Navigation Lights
Download the Guide - Tips on Installing Navigation Lights from National Marine Safety Committee
Navigation Lights - Get it Right
By John Henry NMSC Technical Team Leader
Even though navigation lights are essential for safe boating at night or in poor visibility, boating safety officers across the country regularly come across boats either with defective lights or lights incorrectly aligned. A set of tips for installing navigation lights has been issued by the National Marine Safety Committee and is aimed at boaties who fit their own lights on to their boats.
One common mistake is misaligning side lights. These red and green lights are manufactured to show over a horizontal arc of 112.5 degrees, from straight ahead to aft of the beam. If the red and green lights cross over when viewed from the bow, other vessels will think you are heading in a different direction to your actual course. Getting those angles right depends on installing the light so that it's parallel to the boat's centreline. That sounds simple enough, but there aren't a lot of flat surfaces on a boat, so often an angled mounting bracket or a wedge will be needed.
Sidelights come in a variety of styles to cater for different mounting locations. If you get it wrong and mount a cabin side fitting flat on the deck, you'll be aiming the light at the stars. Your night vision can also be affected if the white 'steaming' light is mounted where it can shine into the driver's eyes. For further details, go to http://www.nmsc.gov.au/lights.html Please contact your local marine safety agency for details on the international rules for showing navigation lights (COLREGS).
For further information, please contact NMSC Communications Ursula Bishop on 0412 813 056.
Download the Guide - Tips on Installing Navigation Lights from National Marine Safety Committee Navigation Lights - Get it Right
By John Henry NMSC Technical Team Leader
Even though navigation lights are essential for safe boating at night or in poor visibility, boating safety officers across the country regularly come across boats either with defective lights or lights incorrectly aligned. A set of tips for installing navigation lights has been issued by the National Marine Safety Committee and is aimed at boaties who fit their own lights on to their boats.
One common mistake is misaligning side lights. These red and green lights are manufactured to show over a horizontal arc of 112.5 degrees, from straight ahead to aft of the beam. If the red and green lights cross over when viewed from the bow, other vessels will think you are heading in a different direction to your actual course. Getting those angles right depends on installing the light so that it's parallel to the boat's centreline. That sounds simple enough, but there aren't a lot of flat surfaces on a boat, so often an angled mounting bracket or a wedge will be needed.
Sidelights come in a variety of styles to cater for different mounting locations. If you get it wrong and mount a cabin side fitting flat on the deck, you'll be aiming the light at the stars. Your night vision can also be affected if the white 'steaming' light is mounted where it can shine into the driver's eyes. For further details, go to http://www.nmsc.gov.au/lights.html Please contact your local marine safety agency for details on the international rules for showing navigation lights (COLREGS).
For further information, please contact NMSC Communications Ursula Bishop on 0412 813 056.
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Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues
Wednesday, 16 December 2009 04:00
How to avoid running aground in your boat
Written by Bob Mellor - AVCGA
Safe Handling for Boats
Vessel Operation Damage.
Vessel operation damage occurs whenever a boat causes damage to the environment through improper handing or irresponsibble use. It occurs when a boat is anchored improperly, operated in shallow water or runs aground in a sensitive area, is operated without regard to the location of aquatic animals, or introduces an aquatic nuisance species to the water. It can damage bottom habitats, injure or kill aquatic animals, and wreak havoc with the environment.
What can you do?
Improperly laid anchors and dragging chains can gouge, abrade and chafe a sensitive living habitat.They can also scar aquatic grass beds which seldom regrow in damaged areas. Use mooring bouys or charts to find appropriate sandy anchoring areas. Make sure your anchor chain does not drag across sensitive habitat. Alert other boaters to safe anchoring areas that you have found. Excessive wake in sensitive areas can cause damage and erosion to shorelines and habitats. Pay attention to No Wash Signs, Speed Signs, Isolated Danger and Special Marks, Aquamark Minibouys and Safe Water Marks. Heed channel markers.
Avoid running aground by knowing your colours:
Brown, Brown, Run Aground
Brown water indicates bottom formations close to the surface and should be avoided.
White, White, You Might
Sand bars and shallow rubble appear white and can be much shallower than they appear.
Green, Green, Nice and Clean
Green water usually indicates areas free of shallow areas. Deep draft boats should still exercise caution.
Blue, Blue Cruise on Through
Deep water areas appear blue. Keep in mind that reefs and rocks can rise abruptly from these areas, so give yourself room to navigate.
These generalisations are helpful, but colours may not be apparenet in extreme cloud cover, extreme sun glare, murky water or glassy seas. Remember, if you do run aground DO NOT try to motor your way out. Paddle small boats out the way you came, or radio, phone for assistance. Have the call sign of the local VMR or their phone number available on your boat. Slow your boat when approaching an aquatic animal. Protected aquatic animals include whales, seals, dolphins, penguins and turtles as well as a variety of water birds. For whales all vessels must stay at least 100 metres from a whale (300m if the whale is with calf) and maintain a slow 'no wash ' speed while within 300 metres.
Be aware of the laws for your state. Do not feed, harass or molest aquatic animals. DO NOT dump unused bait or its packing material into the water - bait is often shipped in from outside local areas. By adhering to these few simple practices you can help proptect our marine environment and our sporting and commercial fisheries. You can also bring yourself and your passengers home. In the Clear. Adapted from the Good Mate Recreational Boating & Marina Program - The Ocean Conservancy (USA). Safety by all Means. Back to Boat Safety
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How to ensure your don't run aground in your boat - Boat Handling Procedures for editorials and information about how to operate your vessel in a safe manner.
Vessel Operation Damage.
Vessel operation damage occurs whenever a boat causes damage to the environment through improper handing or irresponsibble use. It occurs when a boat is anchored improperly, operated in shallow water or runs aground in a sensitive area, is operated without regard to the location of aquatic animals, or introduces an aquatic nuisance species to the water. It can damage bottom habitats, injure or kill aquatic animals, and wreak havoc with the environment.
What can you do?
Improperly laid anchors and dragging chains can gouge, abrade and chafe a sensitive living habitat.They can also scar aquatic grass beds which seldom regrow in damaged areas. Use mooring bouys or charts to find appropriate sandy anchoring areas. Make sure your anchor chain does not drag across sensitive habitat. Alert other boaters to safe anchoring areas that you have found. Excessive wake in sensitive areas can cause damage and erosion to shorelines and habitats. Pay attention to No Wash Signs, Speed Signs, Isolated Danger and Special Marks, Aquamark Minibouys and Safe Water Marks. Heed channel markers.
Avoid running aground by knowing your colours:
Brown, Brown, Run Aground
Brown water indicates bottom formations close to the surface and should be avoided.
White, White, You Might
Sand bars and shallow rubble appear white and can be much shallower than they appear.
Green, Green, Nice and Clean
Green water usually indicates areas free of shallow areas. Deep draft boats should still exercise caution.
Blue, Blue Cruise on Through
Deep water areas appear blue. Keep in mind that reefs and rocks can rise abruptly from these areas, so give yourself room to navigate.
These generalisations are helpful, but colours may not be apparenet in extreme cloud cover, extreme sun glare, murky water or glassy seas. Remember, if you do run aground DO NOT try to motor your way out. Paddle small boats out the way you came, or radio, phone for assistance. Have the call sign of the local VMR or their phone number available on your boat. Slow your boat when approaching an aquatic animal. Protected aquatic animals include whales, seals, dolphins, penguins and turtles as well as a variety of water birds. For whales all vessels must stay at least 100 metres from a whale (300m if the whale is with calf) and maintain a slow 'no wash ' speed while within 300 metres.
Be aware of the laws for your state. Do not feed, harass or molest aquatic animals. DO NOT dump unused bait or its packing material into the water - bait is often shipped in from outside local areas. By adhering to these few simple practices you can help proptect our marine environment and our sporting and commercial fisheries. You can also bring yourself and your passengers home. In the Clear. Adapted from the Good Mate Recreational Boating & Marina Program - The Ocean Conservancy (USA). Safety by all Means. Back to Boat Safety
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Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues
Safe Handling for Boats
Marine Engine Care and Maintenance.
Breakdowns and run out of fuel are probably the hightest incidents leading to VMR "assists". As a responsible recreational boat operator there are number of actions you can take to ensure the safety of yourself and passengers and to make for your enjoyment on the water.
Inboard Engines:
* Regularly check belt drives for condition and tension.
* Check engine and gear oil levels.
* Inspect for, and treat rust, corrosion and electrolysis - especially places out of sight, eg: sump.
* Tighten bolts, ie: engine mountings and drive shaft couplings.
* Check water and fuel lines for leaks and weak spots.
* Check fuel tanks for water ingress. Drain to sample.
* Check all glands - prop shaft and rudder post. Repack & grease.
* Check battery security and electrolyte levels.
* Check the raw water filter and fuel filters. Check fuel water traps.
* Attend to all oil points.
* Check wiring for looseness and wear.
* Keep the engine and bildge clean
* An onbord "Trouble Shooting" chart may be of help in tracing engine faults, but it's safest & cheapest to leave most things to the experts.
Outboard Engines:
* Check fuel tank for water and rust.
* Regular checks of flexible fuel lines for weak spots and wear. Select correct grade of petrol and oil.
* If you do not have an oil injection system you should add oil to the tank first, then petrol, in order to ensure better mixing.
* Measure oil with graduated container - near enough is not good enough. Only special outboard grade oil should be used.
* Do not add extra oil unless so indicated by the maker. If you use a fuel and oil mix, run until the carburettor is dry at the end of the day.
* After use in salt water flush through with fresh water.
* With hood off, spray with moisture control fluid i.e. WD40. Do not spray under the flywheel. Replace hood, clean with car shampoo & hose off.
* Grease all nipples regularly.
* Check gear oil regularly.
Oil that is thick and yellowish has water in it. If it needs topping up it is probably leaking. Find the cause of the leak or water ingress; do not just replace it. Only use special outboard gear oil. Refer to the manufacturer's specifications or ask a qualified marine mechanic if you are unsure.
Other Issues to consider:
* Spark plugs should not be screwed too tight.
* Check for nylon fishing line around the propeller. It can cause damage and ruin the gearbox oil seal.
* Carry a spare propeller and shear pin (if applicable).
* Grease prop shaft for ease of removal. Inspect for propeller wear.
* Chips in the propeller or uneven wear may cause vibration, engine wear, loss of efficiency and economy.
* When storing for any time, remove plugs, pour small amount of out board oil into cylinders, turn flywheel - this prevents piston rings sticking.
* Turn the flywheel occasionally to make sure it is still moving freely and does not seize.
Do not play the mechanic. Call for the expert. Outboards can be touchy.
Regular servicing should be done according to the maker's instructions. And remember..."Safety by all means"
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Marine Engines & Boat Engine Maintenance for editorials and information about how to maintain your boat's propulsion systems.
Marine Engine Care and Maintenance.
Breakdowns and run out of fuel are probably the hightest incidents leading to VMR "assists". As a responsible recreational boat operator there are number of actions you can take to ensure the safety of yourself and passengers and to make for your enjoyment on the water.
Inboard Engines:
* Regularly check belt drives for condition and tension.
* Check engine and gear oil levels.
* Inspect for, and treat rust, corrosion and electrolysis - especially places out of sight, eg: sump.
* Tighten bolts, ie: engine mountings and drive shaft couplings.
* Check water and fuel lines for leaks and weak spots.
* Check fuel tanks for water ingress. Drain to sample.
* Check all glands - prop shaft and rudder post. Repack & grease.
* Check battery security and electrolyte levels.
* Check the raw water filter and fuel filters. Check fuel water traps.
* Attend to all oil points.
* Check wiring for looseness and wear.
* Keep the engine and bildge clean
* An onbord "Trouble Shooting" chart may be of help in tracing engine faults, but it's safest & cheapest to leave most things to the experts.
Outboard Engines:
* Check fuel tank for water and rust.
* Regular checks of flexible fuel lines for weak spots and wear. Select correct grade of petrol and oil.
* If you do not have an oil injection system you should add oil to the tank first, then petrol, in order to ensure better mixing.
* Measure oil with graduated container - near enough is not good enough. Only special outboard grade oil should be used.
* Do not add extra oil unless so indicated by the maker. If you use a fuel and oil mix, run until the carburettor is dry at the end of the day.
* After use in salt water flush through with fresh water.
* With hood off, spray with moisture control fluid i.e. WD40. Do not spray under the flywheel. Replace hood, clean with car shampoo & hose off.
* Grease all nipples regularly.
* Check gear oil regularly.
Oil that is thick and yellowish has water in it. If it needs topping up it is probably leaking. Find the cause of the leak or water ingress; do not just replace it. Only use special outboard gear oil. Refer to the manufacturer's specifications or ask a qualified marine mechanic if you are unsure.
Other Issues to consider:
* Spark plugs should not be screwed too tight.
* Check for nylon fishing line around the propeller. It can cause damage and ruin the gearbox oil seal.
* Carry a spare propeller and shear pin (if applicable).
* Grease prop shaft for ease of removal. Inspect for propeller wear.
* Chips in the propeller or uneven wear may cause vibration, engine wear, loss of efficiency and economy.
* When storing for any time, remove plugs, pour small amount of out board oil into cylinders, turn flywheel - this prevents piston rings sticking.
* Turn the flywheel occasionally to make sure it is still moving freely and does not seize.
Do not play the mechanic. Call for the expert. Outboards can be touchy.
Regular servicing should be done according to the maker's instructions. And remember..."Safety by all means"
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Wednesday, 16 December 2009 03:58
How to board a tender or dinghy safely
Written by Bob Mellor - AVCGA
Boarding a Dinghy or Tender
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Boarding a dinghy how hard can it be, you say? Well, lots of people can testify to how silly you feel if you go to clamber aboard and fall flat on your face in the water...so read Bob's advice below and do it safely!
Dinghies.
Loading and unloading at the wharf or a beach: The first thing to remember about dinghies is that they are all cranky and unstable, but some are better than others. In general, the bigger the better.
Boarding and alighting at the wharf or a beach:
Try not to step on a thwart. Thwarts are the athwartships (crosswise) seats that the oarsman sits on. Step into the bottom of the dinghy if possible and keep your weight as low as possible. Never jump into a dinghy. Make sure it is made fast. The oarsman steps in first, sits amidships, and places the outboard oar in position. The first passenger boards and sits amidships aft. The second passenger boards and sits amidships forward. The third passenger boards and sits aft. Only one person stands at a time!!!
Never board a dinghy carrying gear - hand it to someone already aboard. The outboard motor is most easily mounted by bringing the stern into the wharf, with a mooring line secured, and the bow pointing offshore. Unloading at a wharf - use the reverse of the loading sequence. To load from a beach, draw the bow up to the shore and board over the side of the dinghy, near the bow.
General handling:
Never rock the boat. The most stable part is the stern. Always board over the stern when attempting to board from the water. Lowering the centre of gravity increases stability. All people on board should sit as low as possible. When coming alongside a larger vessel, keep the nose pointing in the same direction as the bow of the larger (or parent) vessel. Ship the oars and remove the rowlocks. Hold fast to the larger ship's gunwale until your first passenger disembarks, then have the painter made fast. Dinghies have a shallow draft and will have little grip on the water. They tend to bob about and may damage the ship's stern or quarter. A fender should be used to stand off.
In rough water head into the weather. If you must travel with the weather then head into it, but go astern and use the oars or the motor to head the bow up. Slow down and cross heavy wash at right angles. A dinghy should be towed on the crest of the second stern wave. Secure the paddles or oars and raise the outboard. Dinghies are best towed with a bridle, especially an inflatable.
Consider these essentials:
A dinghy should be:
- Light but durable
- Self buoyant
- Able to carry three adults safely in rough weather
- Robust enough to stand up to constant use
- Easy to row
Overloading is the prime cause of accidents...
Safety by all Means.
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Boat Trailers & Maintenance.
Trailored Boats
Types and sizes of boats trailed on the roads today are many and varied but the principles of safe trailing remain applicable to all craft that are capable of being trailed. A boat is an expensive piece of equipment and is worthy of a trailer capable of carrying it in safety. Unless you are experienced in the art, it is better, and ultimately cheaper, to buy rather than to build.
A trailer must:
1. Be adequate for the length, beam and weight of the boat.
2. Have strong supports - at the stern, for carrying an outboard, AND directly under the engine, for carrying an inboard.
3. Be hot-dipped galvanised all over.
4. Have a winch geared for the weight of the boat and strength of the operator.
5. Be capable of carrying a weight 50% greater than the weight of the bare boat and motor.
6. Be well maintained - No rust; Nuts and bolts tight; Tyres well treaded and at correct pressure; Bearings in good order and greased regularly; Winch wire in good order; Have functioning tail and stop lights and indicators.
Boat trailers should exert an appropriate weight on the tow bar. They should have an adequate amount of safety chain. The chain must permit all normal angular movement but must prevent the forward end of the tow bar from striking the ground in the event of accidental disconnection of the coupling. Your boat trailer should have adequate brakes as required by the relevant road and traffic authority. The boat trailer must be towed by a vehicle of a weight appropriate to the weight of the trailer and boat, as specified by the relevant road and traffic authority.
Setting up the trailer:
- Centre the vessel on the trailer rollers.
- Position the vessel so that the rear roller is beneath the vessel transom.
- Locate the bow support post so that the vessel is secured in the above position.
- Adjust the roller heights for even support of the vessel weight along the keel.
- Adjust the position of the carrying rollers so that the vessel is supported beneath the stringers or reinforcing ribs.
- Adjust the tie-downs and straps to the correct length.
- Utilise a separate chain to secure the vessel eyebolt to the trailer.
- Set disc brake over-ride if fitted.
Road Trailing:
- Practise handling the trailer in an open space especially in reverse. Watch through the rear window, NOT the rear vision mirror.
- Remember that the unit is now twice the length of your car.
- Do not load the boat with all your gear - it is not a box trailer.
- Ensure petrol tanks, battery and other gear are secured.
- Check to see that - Tyre pressures are correct; Tailer lights are working; Tie downs are secure; The trailer exerts a downward force on tow bar
- The motor clamps are secure, outboard drive raised and lashed or clamped.
- Inspect the condition of the spare wheel, spare bearings and changing tools.
- Beware of air turbulence from large vehicles.
- Do not drive at high speed (check speed limits for trailing vehicles).
- Avoid potholes (the car and trailer tracks are probably not the same).
- Do not start stop or swerve suddenly.
- Ensure that the trailer and boat combination complies with the regulations set down by the relevant Road Traffic Authority.
- Inspect the security of the trailed unit at regular intervals and check the trailer wheel bearings for overheating.
- Tail-wagging may be due to: Uneven tyre pressures; A shifting load; A fracture in the trailer frame; Insufficient weight on the tow bar, or Excessive speed.
Launching your vessel:
- Prepare your vessel away from the ramp, not on it.
- Remove tie downs, load gear and equipment and ensure the drain plug is in place.
- Attach a long bow line
- Inspect unfamiliar ramps for obstacles, vessel handling areas, wind and tidal effects
- Observe other vessels being launched.
- Wait your turn at the ramp.
- Trailer sailors must make a special note of the positioning of power lines.
- Reverse onto the ramp and if possible DO NOT immerse the hubs or axles in the water. Be aware of slippery ramps.
- Unhook the boat from the bow support.
- Take the bow line (ensuring that it is secured to the forward cleat) and gently push.
- Take extreme care if using the tilt action when launching your boat as the vessel may enter shallow water too sharply and cause damage to the keel or engine of your boat. If possible, do not use the tilt action unless absolutely necessary for launching.
- Secure the boat and move the trailer promptly away from the ramp.
Recovering your boat:
- Before attempting to recover the vessel, assess any prevailing wind or current action that may swing the stern of your vessel during recovery.
- If necessary attach approximately 10m of rope to the windward cleat and have a person hold this line to maintain the vessel centred on the trailer during the recovery.
- Approach the ramp at low speed; do not make waves, moor the vessel.
- In your turn, back the trailer down the ramp, and if necessary release the tilt action mechanism.
- Centre the vessel on the rear roller and attach the winch hook to the vessel.
- Winch the vessel onto the trailer maintaining the vessel centred on rollers and, as necessary, re-lock the tilt action.
- Vacate the ramp as promptly as possible to an area well clear of the ramp.
- Secure the boat with tie downs, remove drain plug and, as necessary, drain of water.
- Where possible, wash down your vessel and trailer with fresh water to prevent salt accumulation.
- Check the trailer lights and securing chains and secure the bow post and chain.
A few quick words about wheel bearings:
If you are using your boat trailer regularly then you should have the wheel bearings checked on a regular basis. If your trailer is only used rarely, then you should make sure that the weight is taken off the wheel bearings, as they will deform if left in one position over a long period. This may cause sudden and unexpected problems when you take the boat out next. Try not to submerge the trailer wheels when launching and recovering your boat. Wheel bearings are not water tight and will rust and corrode if they get wet. If you do submerge the wheels then the bearings should be checked regularly.
Remember safety afloat is important. Equally important is safe trailing of your vessel.
"Safety by all means."
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Boat Trailers for editorials and information about boat trailers, maintenance and repairs to boat trailers and parts and accessories.
Trailored Boats
Types and sizes of boats trailed on the roads today are many and varied but the principles of safe trailing remain applicable to all craft that are capable of being trailed. A boat is an expensive piece of equipment and is worthy of a trailer capable of carrying it in safety. Unless you are experienced in the art, it is better, and ultimately cheaper, to buy rather than to build.
A trailer must:
1. Be adequate for the length, beam and weight of the boat.
2. Have strong supports - at the stern, for carrying an outboard, AND directly under the engine, for carrying an inboard.
3. Be hot-dipped galvanised all over.
4. Have a winch geared for the weight of the boat and strength of the operator.
5. Be capable of carrying a weight 50% greater than the weight of the bare boat and motor.
6. Be well maintained - No rust; Nuts and bolts tight; Tyres well treaded and at correct pressure; Bearings in good order and greased regularly; Winch wire in good order; Have functioning tail and stop lights and indicators.
Boat trailers should exert an appropriate weight on the tow bar. They should have an adequate amount of safety chain. The chain must permit all normal angular movement but must prevent the forward end of the tow bar from striking the ground in the event of accidental disconnection of the coupling. Your boat trailer should have adequate brakes as required by the relevant road and traffic authority. The boat trailer must be towed by a vehicle of a weight appropriate to the weight of the trailer and boat, as specified by the relevant road and traffic authority.
Setting up the trailer:
- Centre the vessel on the trailer rollers.
- Position the vessel so that the rear roller is beneath the vessel transom.
- Locate the bow support post so that the vessel is secured in the above position.
- Adjust the roller heights for even support of the vessel weight along the keel.
- Adjust the position of the carrying rollers so that the vessel is supported beneath the stringers or reinforcing ribs.
- Adjust the tie-downs and straps to the correct length.
- Utilise a separate chain to secure the vessel eyebolt to the trailer.
- Set disc brake over-ride if fitted.
Road Trailing:
- Practise handling the trailer in an open space especially in reverse. Watch through the rear window, NOT the rear vision mirror.
- Remember that the unit is now twice the length of your car.
- Do not load the boat with all your gear - it is not a box trailer.
- Ensure petrol tanks, battery and other gear are secured.
- Check to see that - Tyre pressures are correct; Tailer lights are working; Tie downs are secure; The trailer exerts a downward force on tow bar
- The motor clamps are secure, outboard drive raised and lashed or clamped.
- Inspect the condition of the spare wheel, spare bearings and changing tools.
- Beware of air turbulence from large vehicles.
- Do not drive at high speed (check speed limits for trailing vehicles).
- Avoid potholes (the car and trailer tracks are probably not the same).
- Do not start stop or swerve suddenly.
- Ensure that the trailer and boat combination complies with the regulations set down by the relevant Road Traffic Authority.
- Inspect the security of the trailed unit at regular intervals and check the trailer wheel bearings for overheating.
- Tail-wagging may be due to: Uneven tyre pressures; A shifting load; A fracture in the trailer frame; Insufficient weight on the tow bar, or Excessive speed.
Launching your vessel:
- Prepare your vessel away from the ramp, not on it.
- Remove tie downs, load gear and equipment and ensure the drain plug is in place.
- Attach a long bow line
- Inspect unfamiliar ramps for obstacles, vessel handling areas, wind and tidal effects
- Observe other vessels being launched.
- Wait your turn at the ramp.
- Trailer sailors must make a special note of the positioning of power lines.
- Reverse onto the ramp and if possible DO NOT immerse the hubs or axles in the water. Be aware of slippery ramps.
- Unhook the boat from the bow support.
- Take the bow line (ensuring that it is secured to the forward cleat) and gently push.
- Take extreme care if using the tilt action when launching your boat as the vessel may enter shallow water too sharply and cause damage to the keel or engine of your boat. If possible, do not use the tilt action unless absolutely necessary for launching.
- Secure the boat and move the trailer promptly away from the ramp.
Recovering your boat:
- Before attempting to recover the vessel, assess any prevailing wind or current action that may swing the stern of your vessel during recovery.
- If necessary attach approximately 10m of rope to the windward cleat and have a person hold this line to maintain the vessel centred on the trailer during the recovery.
- Approach the ramp at low speed; do not make waves, moor the vessel.
- In your turn, back the trailer down the ramp, and if necessary release the tilt action mechanism.
- Centre the vessel on the rear roller and attach the winch hook to the vessel.
- Winch the vessel onto the trailer maintaining the vessel centred on rollers and, as necessary, re-lock the tilt action.
- Vacate the ramp as promptly as possible to an area well clear of the ramp.
- Secure the boat with tie downs, remove drain plug and, as necessary, drain of water.
- Where possible, wash down your vessel and trailer with fresh water to prevent salt accumulation.
- Check the trailer lights and securing chains and secure the bow post and chain.
A few quick words about wheel bearings:
If you are using your boat trailer regularly then you should have the wheel bearings checked on a regular basis. If your trailer is only used rarely, then you should make sure that the weight is taken off the wheel bearings, as they will deform if left in one position over a long period. This may cause sudden and unexpected problems when you take the boat out next. Try not to submerge the trailer wheels when launching and recovering your boat. Wheel bearings are not water tight and will rust and corrode if they get wet. If you do submerge the wheels then the bearings should be checked regularly.
Remember safety afloat is important. Equally important is safe trailing of your vessel.
"Safety by all means."
Back to Boat Safety
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Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues
Safety Procedures for Crossing a Sand Bar in a Boat
Navigating sand bars.
"In The Clear" by Bob Mellor, AVCGA (Part 2) Shallow ocean bars are formed by the movement of sand along the coast and build up of sand at the entrances to rivers and coastal lakes. Bars are locations for experienced skippers only. If you are inexperienced in bar crossings do not attempt to cross a bar without having an experienced skipper on board. Whenever possible avoid crossing a bar on a run-out tide as this is when dangerous waves may occur.
Plan your crossing.
There are a number of steps recommended to be taken before crossing a bar even for experienced skippers.
1. Know the tide times & obtain an up to date weather forecast. Take particular notice of forecast wind conditions. Avoid crossing on a run out tide.
2. Seek advice from locals who know the bar and its characteristics.
3. Observe the bar conditions for a reasonable time before making your decision to proceed.
4. Watch other vessels making crossings and compare these vessels with yours.
5. Check all controls to make sure everything is working correctly (steering, throttle, bilge pumps, engine(s), radio, battery).
6. Secure watertight hatches, clear drains and securely stow all loose gear.
7. Ensure all passengers and crew onboard are wearing a PFD Type 1 life jacket and are seated.
Crossing the bar
- Log on with a coastal radio station.
- Idle towards the bar and assess conditions again.
- Identify the line of least activity.
- Apply throttle and commence your run.
- Do not hit waves at high speed - this is a dangerous practice as your vessel could become airborne.
- If there is no lull in wave activity motor to the surf zone, gently accelerate over the first broken water and run to the next. Do not travel too fast.
- Back off power just before meeting the next swell and pass slowly through the wave then accelerate to the next wave.
- Once committed keep going - do not try to turn around in the middle of a bar crossing.
- When safely across the bar notify the coastal radio station you logged on with.
Coming home
- Conditions may have changed since your outbound crossing so stand off the bar and assess conditions before attempting to come in.
- Try to pick the line of least activity and choose a set of waves suitable for your entry.
- Maintain the same speed as the waves and sit on the back of the waves when travelling in.
- Do not overtake a wave and run down its face - the risk of swamping is increased significantly in these circumstances.
- Watch the waves behind you and stay ahead of them.
- When the wave ahead of you breaks accelerate through the white water.
- Be alert for pressure waves coming off the shore or seawalls.
- When safely across the bar log off with the coastal radio station.
The best advice that can be given to any skipper regarding bar crossing is: If in doubt dont go out!! Remember our motto - "Safety by all means"
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Sand bars and ocean bars are a danger for boaties of all experience levels and the upmost caution and concentration should be maintained whilst crossing or navigating them. It is helpful also to know local tides to try and navigate at the most opportune time.
Navigating sand bars.
"In The Clear" by Bob Mellor, AVCGA (Part 2) Shallow ocean bars are formed by the movement of sand along the coast and build up of sand at the entrances to rivers and coastal lakes. Bars are locations for experienced skippers only. If you are inexperienced in bar crossings do not attempt to cross a bar without having an experienced skipper on board. Whenever possible avoid crossing a bar on a run-out tide as this is when dangerous waves may occur.
Plan your crossing.
There are a number of steps recommended to be taken before crossing a bar even for experienced skippers.
1. Know the tide times & obtain an up to date weather forecast. Take particular notice of forecast wind conditions. Avoid crossing on a run out tide.
2. Seek advice from locals who know the bar and its characteristics.
3. Observe the bar conditions for a reasonable time before making your decision to proceed.
4. Watch other vessels making crossings and compare these vessels with yours.
5. Check all controls to make sure everything is working correctly (steering, throttle, bilge pumps, engine(s), radio, battery).
6. Secure watertight hatches, clear drains and securely stow all loose gear.
7. Ensure all passengers and crew onboard are wearing a PFD Type 1 life jacket and are seated.
Crossing the bar
- Log on with a coastal radio station.
- Idle towards the bar and assess conditions again.
- Identify the line of least activity.
- Apply throttle and commence your run.
- Do not hit waves at high speed - this is a dangerous practice as your vessel could become airborne.
- If there is no lull in wave activity motor to the surf zone, gently accelerate over the first broken water and run to the next. Do not travel too fast.
- Back off power just before meeting the next swell and pass slowly through the wave then accelerate to the next wave.
- Once committed keep going - do not try to turn around in the middle of a bar crossing.
- When safely across the bar notify the coastal radio station you logged on with.
Coming home
- Conditions may have changed since your outbound crossing so stand off the bar and assess conditions before attempting to come in.
- Try to pick the line of least activity and choose a set of waves suitable for your entry.
- Maintain the same speed as the waves and sit on the back of the waves when travelling in.
- Do not overtake a wave and run down its face - the risk of swamping is increased significantly in these circumstances.
- Watch the waves behind you and stay ahead of them.
- When the wave ahead of you breaks accelerate through the white water.
- Be alert for pressure waves coming off the shore or seawalls.
- When safely across the bar log off with the coastal radio station.
The best advice that can be given to any skipper regarding bar crossing is: If in doubt dont go out!! Remember our motto - "Safety by all means"
Back to Boat Safety
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Published in
Boat Safety / Marine Safety Issues