• Inspect the area near the back of the boat to ensure the area is all clear before starting the engine.
• Turn the engine off when near people in the water as some propellers may continue to spin, even in neutral.
• Keep a proper look out at all times when underway, especially when near swimmers.
• Stay out of designated swimming areas.
• Observe "distance off" rules and keep clear of people in the water, passive craft and other vessels.
• Brief any person driving the powerboat on the risks.
• Keep all arms and legs inside the boat and not over the bow or sides. Bowriding and 'teak surfing' ( holding onto the stern of a boat that is underway) are illegal in NSW.
• Wear a kill-switch lanyard when boating alone. A kill-switch lanyard is attached to the arm and stops the engine when pulled out.

Re-think your attitude towards wearing a lifejacket or PFD

 

So You Can Swim......

- For how long?

- How far?

- While trying to put a lifejacket on?

- While helping your kids?

- In rough water?

- When you are injured?

- While you are unconscious?

Always Wear Your Lifejacket

Maritime authorities estimate that lifejackets could have saved the lives of over 80% of boating fatality victims. As a boat operator you are in command of the safety of your passengers. But accidents can, and do happen with terrifying speed on the water. There's rarely time to reach stowed lifejackets. The Australian Volunteer Coast Guard challenges you and your passengers to always wear your lifejacket while on the water.

Things to Know

Certain lifejackets are designed to keep your head above water and help you remain in a position which permits proper breathing. Approved lifejackets must be carried on board every vessel unless exempt. Penalties will be imposed on the owners and masters of vessels found not carrying them or occupants not wearing them as required. Adult sized lifejackets will not work for children. Children's lifejackets are available. To work correctly a lifejacket must be worn, fit snugly, and not allow a child's chin or ears to slip through. Lifejackets should be tested for wear and buoyancy at least once per year. Waterlogged, faded or leaky jackets should be discarded.

Lifejackets Save Lives

Lifejackets have saved the lives of boaters who....

- Capsized in rough water
- Were sinking in unexpectedly heavy sea conditions.
- Were thrown from the boat as a result of a collision.
- Were injured by rocks or submerged objects.
- Were unconscious from inhaling carbon monoxide fumes.
- Were tossed into freezing water.
- Were thrown off balance while fishing
- Were unable to swim because of heavy or waterlogged clothing

To stay In the Clear always wear a lifejacket on the water!! Safety by all means.

Thanks to Bob Mellor, National Training Manager for AVCGA for this editorial.

Editor's comment: It is very easy to become complacent when you have had so many good times aboard and seemingly no need to wear your lifejacket. As Bob states above, boating accidents often happen at high speed and or at night. Boats sink so fast there is no time to clamber around in your cabin or underneath bunks to retrieve lifejackets. PLEASE get in the habit of wearing your PFD or at the very least, have it sitting right beside you EVERY time you venture out to sea or on the bay. If you are by yourself, always wear your PFD Type 1 lifejacket - you may be rendered unconscious with no one to buoy you.

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Safe Handling for Boats
Vessel Operation Damage.

Vessel operation damage occurs whenever a boat causes damage to the environment through improper handing or irresponsibble use. It occurs when a boat is anchored improperly, operated in shallow water or runs aground in a sensitive area, is operated without regard to the location of aquatic animals, or introduces an aquatic nuisance species to the water. It can damage bottom habitats, injure or kill aquatic animals, and wreak havoc with the environment.

What can you do?

Improperly laid anchors and dragging chains can gouge, abrade and chafe a sensitive living habitat.They can also scar aquatic grass beds which seldom regrow in damaged areas. Use mooring bouys or charts to find appropriate sandy anchoring areas. Make sure your anchor chain does not drag across sensitive habitat. Alert other boaters to safe anchoring areas that you have found. Excessive wake in sensitive areas can cause damage and erosion to shorelines and habitats. Pay attention to No Wash Signs, Speed Signs, Isolated Danger and Special Marks, Aquamark Minibouys and Safe Water Marks. Heed channel markers.

Avoid running aground by knowing your colours:

Brown, Brown, Run Aground
Brown water indicates bottom formations close to the surface and should be avoided.

White, White, You Might
Sand bars and shallow rubble appear white and can be much shallower than they appear.

Green, Green, Nice and Clean
Green water usually indicates areas free of shallow areas. Deep draft boats should still exercise caution.

Blue, Blue Cruise on Through
Deep water areas appear blue. Keep in mind that reefs and rocks can rise abruptly from these areas, so give yourself room to navigate.

These generalisations are helpful, but colours may not be apparenet in extreme cloud cover, extreme sun glare, murky water or glassy seas. Remember, if you do run aground DO NOT try to motor your way out. Paddle small boats out the way you came, or radio, phone for assistance. Have the call sign of the local VMR or their phone number available on your boat. Slow your boat when approaching an aquatic animal. Protected aquatic animals include whales, seals, dolphins, penguins and turtles as well as a variety of water birds. For whales all vessels must stay at least 100 metres from a whale (300m if the whale is with calf) and maintain a slow 'no wash ' speed while within 300 metres.

Be aware of the laws for your state. Do not feed, harass or molest aquatic animals. DO NOT dump unused bait or its packing material into the water - bait is often shipped in from outside local areas. By adhering to these few simple practices you can help proptect our marine environment and our sporting and commercial fisheries. You can also bring yourself and your passengers home.  In the Clear. Adapted from the Good Mate Recreational Boating & Marina Program - The Ocean Conservancy (USA). Safety by all Means.  Back to Boat Safety

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Safe Handling for Boats
Marine Engine Care and Maintenance.

Breakdowns and run out of fuel are probably the hightest incidents leading to VMR "assists". As a responsible recreational boat operator there are number of actions you can take to ensure the safety of yourself and passengers and to make for your enjoyment on the water.

Inboard Engines:

* Regularly check belt drives for condition and tension.
* Check engine and gear oil levels.
* Inspect for, and treat rust, corrosion and electrolysis - especially places out of sight, eg: sump.
* Tighten bolts, ie: engine mountings and drive shaft couplings.
* Check water and fuel lines for leaks and weak spots.
* Check fuel tanks for water ingress. Drain to sample.
* Check all glands - prop shaft and rudder post. Repack & grease.
* Check battery security and electrolyte levels.
* Check the raw water filter and fuel filters. Check fuel water traps.
* Attend to all oil points.
* Check wiring for looseness and wear.
* Keep the engine and bildge clean
* An onbord "Trouble Shooting" chart may be of help in tracing engine faults, but it's safest & cheapest to leave most things to the experts.

Outboard Engines:

* Check fuel tank for water and rust.
* Regular checks of flexible fuel lines for weak spots and wear. Select correct grade of petrol and oil.
* If you do not have an oil injection system you should add oil to the tank first, then petrol, in order to ensure better mixing.
* Measure oil with graduated container - near enough is not good enough. Only special outboard grade oil should be used.
* Do not add extra oil unless so indicated by the maker. If you use a fuel and oil mix, run until the carburettor is dry at the end of the day.
* After use in salt water flush through with fresh water.
* With hood off, spray with moisture control fluid i.e. WD40. Do not spray under the flywheel. Replace hood, clean with car shampoo & hose off.
* Grease all nipples regularly.
* Check gear oil regularly.

Oil that is thick and yellowish has water in it. If it needs topping up it is probably leaking. Find the cause of the leak or water ingress; do not just replace it. Only use special outboard gear oil. Refer to the manufacturer's specifications or ask a qualified marine mechanic if you are unsure.

Other Issues to consider:

* Spark plugs should not be screwed too tight.
* Check for nylon fishing line around the propeller. It can cause damage and ruin the gearbox oil seal.
* Carry a spare propeller and shear pin (if applicable).
* Grease prop shaft for ease of removal. Inspect for propeller wear.
* Chips in the propeller or uneven wear may cause vibration, engine wear, loss of efficiency and economy.
* When storing for any time, remove plugs, pour small amount of out board oil into cylinders, turn flywheel - this prevents piston rings sticking.
* Turn the flywheel occasionally to make sure it is still moving freely and does not seize.

Do not play the mechanic. Call for the expert. Outboards can be touchy.

Regular servicing should be done according to the maker's instructions. And remember..."Safety by all means"

 Back to Boat Editorials

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Boarding a Dinghy or Tender

Dinghies.

Loading and unloading at the wharf or a beach: The first thing to remember about dinghies is that they are all cranky and unstable, but some are better than others. In general, the bigger the better.

Boarding and alighting at the wharf or a beach:

Try not to step on a thwart. Thwarts are the athwartships (crosswise) seats that the oarsman sits on. Step into the bottom of the dinghy if possible and keep your weight as low as possible. Never jump into a dinghy. Make sure it is made fast. The oarsman steps in first, sits amidships, and places the outboard oar in position. The first passenger boards and sits amidships aft. The second passenger boards and sits amidships forward. The third passenger boards and sits aft. Only one person stands at a time!!!

Never board a dinghy carrying gear - hand it to someone already aboard. The outboard motor is most easily mounted by bringing the stern into the wharf, with a mooring line secured, and the bow pointing offshore. Unloading at a wharf - use the reverse of the loading sequence. To load from a beach, draw the bow up to the shore and board over the side of the dinghy, near the bow.

General handling:

Never rock the boat. The most stable part is the stern. Always board over the stern when attempting to board from the water. Lowering the centre of gravity increases stability. All people on board should sit as low as possible. When coming alongside a larger vessel, keep the nose pointing in the same direction as the bow of the larger (or parent) vessel. Ship the oars and remove the rowlocks. Hold fast to the larger ship's gunwale until your first passenger disembarks, then have the painter made fast. Dinghies have a shallow draft and will have little grip on the water. They tend to bob about and may damage the ship's stern or quarter. A fender should be used to stand off.

In rough water head into the weather. If you must travel with the weather then head into it, but go astern and use the oars or the motor to head the bow up. Slow down and cross heavy wash at right angles. A dinghy should be towed on the crest of the second stern wave. Secure the paddles or oars and raise the outboard. Dinghies are best towed with a bridle, especially an inflatable.

Consider these essentials:

A dinghy should be:
- Light but durable
- Self buoyant
- Able to carry three adults safely in rough weather
- Robust enough to stand up to constant use
- Easy to row

Overloading is the prime cause of accidents...

Safety by all Means.

Back to Boat Editorials

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Boat Trailers & Maintenance.
Trailored Boats

Types and sizes of boats trailed on the roads today are many and varied but the principles of safe trailing remain applicable to all craft that are capable of being trailed. A boat is an expensive piece of equipment and is worthy of a trailer capable of carrying it in safety. Unless you are experienced in the art, it is better, and ultimately cheaper, to buy rather than to build.

A trailer must:

1. Be adequate for the length, beam and weight of the boat.
2. Have strong supports - at the stern, for carrying an outboard, AND directly under the engine, for carrying an inboard.
3. Be hot-dipped galvanised all over.
4. Have a winch geared for the weight of the boat and strength of the operator.
5. Be capable of carrying a weight 50% greater than the weight of the bare boat and motor.
6. Be well maintained - No rust; Nuts and bolts tight; Tyres well treaded and at correct pressure; Bearings in good order and greased regularly; Winch wire in good order; Have functioning tail and stop lights and indicators.

Boat trailers should exert an appropriate weight on the tow bar. They should have an adequate amount of safety chain. The chain must permit all normal angular movement but must prevent the forward end of the tow bar from striking the ground in the event of accidental disconnection of the coupling. Your boat trailer should have adequate brakes as required by the relevant road and traffic authority. The boat trailer must be towed by a vehicle of a weight appropriate to the weight of the trailer and boat, as specified by the relevant road and traffic authority.

Setting up the trailer:

- Centre the vessel on the trailer rollers.
- Position the vessel so that the rear roller is beneath the vessel transom.
- Locate the bow support post so that the vessel is secured in the above position.
- Adjust the roller heights for even support of the vessel weight along the keel.
- Adjust the position of the carrying rollers so that the vessel is supported beneath the stringers or reinforcing ribs.
- Adjust the tie-downs and straps to the correct length.
- Utilise a separate chain to secure the vessel eyebolt to the trailer.
- Set disc brake over-ride if fitted.

Road Trailing:

- Practise handling the trailer in an open space especially in reverse. Watch through the rear window, NOT the rear vision mirror.
- Remember that the unit is now twice the length of your car.
- Do not load the boat with all your gear - it is not a box trailer.
- Ensure petrol tanks, battery and other gear are secured.
- Check to see that - Tyre pressures are correct; Tailer lights are working; Tie downs are secure; The trailer exerts a downward force on tow bar
- The motor clamps are secure, outboard drive raised and lashed or clamped.
- Inspect the condition of the spare wheel, spare bearings and changing tools.
- Beware of air turbulence from large vehicles.
- Do not drive at high speed (check speed limits for trailing vehicles).
- Avoid potholes (the car and trailer tracks are probably not the same).
- Do not start stop or swerve suddenly.
- Ensure that the trailer and boat combination complies with the regulations set down by the relevant Road Traffic Authority.
- Inspect the security of the trailed unit at regular intervals and check the trailer wheel bearings for overheating.
- Tail-wagging may be due to: Uneven tyre pressures; A shifting load; A fracture in the trailer frame; Insufficient weight on the tow bar, or Excessive speed.

Launching your vessel:

- Prepare your vessel away from the ramp, not on it.
- Remove tie downs, load gear and equipment and ensure the drain plug is in place.
- Attach a long bow line
- Inspect unfamiliar ramps for obstacles, vessel handling areas, wind and tidal effects
- Observe other vessels being launched.
- Wait your turn at the ramp.
- Trailer sailors must make a special note of the positioning of power lines.
- Reverse onto the ramp and if possible DO NOT immerse the hubs or axles in the water. Be aware of slippery ramps.
- Unhook the boat from the bow support.
- Take the bow line (ensuring that it is secured to the forward cleat) and gently push.
- Take extreme care if using the tilt action when launching your boat as the vessel may enter shallow water too sharply and cause damage to the keel or engine of your boat. If possible, do not use the tilt action unless absolutely necessary for launching.
- Secure the boat and move the trailer promptly away from the ramp.

Recovering your boat:

- Before attempting to recover the vessel, assess any prevailing wind or current action that may swing the stern of your vessel during recovery.
- If necessary attach approximately 10m of rope to the windward cleat and have a person hold this line to maintain the vessel centred on the trailer during the recovery.
- Approach the ramp at low speed; do not make waves, moor the vessel.
- In your turn, back the trailer down the ramp, and if necessary release the tilt action mechanism.
- Centre the vessel on the rear roller and attach the winch hook to the vessel.
- Winch the vessel onto the trailer maintaining the vessel centred on rollers and, as necessary, re-lock the tilt action.
- Vacate the ramp as promptly as possible to an area well clear of the ramp.
- Secure the boat with tie downs, remove drain plug and, as necessary, drain of water.
- Where possible, wash down your vessel and trailer with fresh water to prevent salt accumulation.
- Check the trailer lights and securing chains and secure the bow post and chain.

A few quick words about wheel bearings:

If you are using your boat trailer regularly then you should have the wheel bearings checked on a regular basis. If your trailer is only used rarely, then you should make sure that the weight is taken off the wheel bearings, as they will deform if left in one position over a long period. This may cause sudden and unexpected problems when you take the boat out next. Try not to submerge the trailer wheels when launching and recovering your boat. Wheel bearings are not water tight and will rust and corrode if they get wet. If you do submerge the wheels then the bearings should be checked regularly.

Remember safety afloat is important. Equally important is safe trailing of your vessel.

"Safety by all means."

Back to Boat Safety

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Safety Procedures for Crossing a Sand Bar in a Boat
Navigating sand bars.

"In The Clear" by Bob Mellor, AVCGA (Part 2) Shallow ocean bars are formed by the movement of sand along the coast and build up of sand at the entrances to rivers and coastal lakes. Bars are locations for experienced skippers only. If you are inexperienced in bar crossings do not attempt to cross a bar without having an experienced skipper on board. Whenever possible avoid crossing a bar on a run-out tide as this is when dangerous waves may occur.

Plan your crossing.
There are a number of steps recommended to be taken before crossing a bar even for experienced skippers.

1. Know the tide times & obtain an up to date weather forecast. Take particular notice of forecast wind conditions. Avoid crossing on a run out tide.
2. Seek advice from locals who know the bar and its characteristics.
3. Observe the bar conditions for a reasonable time before making your decision to proceed.
4. Watch other vessels making crossings and compare these vessels with yours.
5. Check all controls to make sure everything is working correctly (steering, throttle, bilge pumps, engine(s), radio, battery).
6. Secure watertight hatches, clear drains and securely stow all loose gear.
7. Ensure all passengers and crew onboard are wearing a PFD Type 1 life jacket and are seated.

Crossing the bar

- Log on with a coastal radio station.
- Idle towards the bar and assess conditions again.
- Identify the line of least activity.
- Apply throttle and commence your run.
- Do not hit waves at high speed - this is a dangerous practice as your vessel could become airborne.
- If there is no lull in wave activity motor to the surf zone, gently accelerate over the first broken water and run to the next. Do not travel too fast.
- Back off power just before meeting the next swell and pass slowly through the wave then accelerate to the next wave.
- Once committed keep going - do not try to turn around in the middle of a bar crossing.
- When safely across the bar notify the coastal radio station you logged on with.

Coming home

- Conditions may have changed since your outbound crossing so stand off the bar and assess conditions before attempting to come in.
- Try to pick the line of least activity and choose a set of waves suitable for your entry.
- Maintain the same speed as the waves and sit on the back of the waves when travelling in.
- Do not overtake a wave and run down its face - the risk of swamping is increased significantly in these circumstances.
- Watch the waves behind you and stay ahead of them.
- When the wave ahead of you breaks accelerate through the white water.
- Be alert for pressure waves coming off the shore or seawalls.
- When safely across the bar log off with the coastal radio station.

The best advice that can be given to any skipper regarding bar crossing is: If in doubt dont go out!! Remember our motto - "Safety by all means"

Back to Boat Safety

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Preventing a Boating Accident - Collisions at Sea
Preventing collisions at sea....ODE to the 'RULE OF THE ROAD' by Thomas Grey

WHEN BOTH LIGHTS YOU SEE AHEAD...STARBOARD WHEEL AND SHOW YOUR RED.

GREEN TO GREEN OR RED TO RED...PERFECT SAFETY GO AHEAD

IF TO STARBOARD RED APPEAR...IT IS YOUR DUTY TO KEEP CLEAR;

ACT AS JUDGEMENT SAYS IS PROPER...GO TO STARBOARD - BACK OR STOP HER.

BUT WHEN UPON YOUR PORT IS SEEN...A STEAMER'S LIGHT OF GREEN;

THERE'S NOT MUCH FOR YOU TO DO..FOR GREEN TO PORT KEEPS CLEAR OF YOU.

BOTH IN SAFETY AND IN DOUBT...ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD LOOKOUT:

IN DANGER WITH NO ROOM TO TURN...EASE HER - STOP HER - GO ASTERN.


In Summary, Masters Of Small Vessels Should Bear In Mind The Following Points.

Colregs Are Essentially Simple And Easily Understood. They are there to be learned and applied.

Vessels Are Always Required To:

PROCEED AT A SAFE SPEED KEEP TO THE STARBOARD SIDE WHEN IN A MARKED CHANNEL

KEEP A GOOD LOOKOUT

PASS OTHER VESSELS AT A SAFE DISTANCE.

KEEP TO THE STARBOARD SIDE WHEN IN A MARKED CHANNEL

Large vessels are simply unable to avoid small craft in every single circumstance, even if theoretically, the small craft can claim right of way. In confined waters, small craft are required to keep clear of ships underway in channels and fairways. At sea, the risk of collision with an approaching vessel should be assessed by using a hand bearing compass to keep track of bearing changes during the closing phase. If risk of collision exists, small craft should either move well clear long before a close quarters situation arises or comply with COLREG signals and lights and make their intentions clear to the approaching vessel.

Efficient navigation lights and radar reflectors are of critical importance to small craft operating on or near shipping routes. IF THE COMPASS BEARING OF A SHIP APPROACHING TO CLOSE RANGE REMAINS UNCHANGED, A SMALL CRAFT SHOULD USE:-


*** APPROPRIATE LIGHTS

*** SIGNALS

*** FLARES or

*** MARINE RADIO (VHF CH 16)

*** AS APPROPRIATE TO ATTRACT ATTENTION.

Finally, when in the vicinity of a large ship always remember - Might is Right! (i.e. the larger vessel always has right of way.) Let common sense prevail. Ken's first Rule: NEVER ASSUME THAT ALL OTHER CRAFT WILL KNOW AND OBEY THESE RULES. ALWAYS USE GREAT CAUTION IN A CLOSE QUARTERS SITUATION.
Ken's second Rule: IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE SITUATION VIEW IT OVER THE STERN.
Ken's third Rule: WHEN IN DANGER OR IN DOUBT...SAIL IN CIRCLES, SCREAM and SHOUT

Back to Boat Safety

This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it